Sydney-siders such as myself were dismayed when Tetsuya Wakuda’s restaurant fell from its place as one of the world’s top 50 best restaurants. And, although still in the top 100, holding on at a very respectable number 58 on the list, this consistent SMH Good Food Guide winner has also found itself minus a coveted chef’s hat in 2011 and 2012.
Are the judges being a touch harsh on this inspired French-Japanese fusion experience? The people of Sydney don’t seem to think so as in 2011 Tetsuya’s won the SMH Good Food Guide People's Choice Award. I decided to settle my mind once and for all and find out for myself, it was the right thing to do (I’m good like that).
Tetsuya’s is tucked away on Kent Street, protected from the hustle and bustle of Sydney city. I was surprised at first by the simplicity of the restaurant as I entered, but this was quickly quelled as I was seated by one of the windows with an unspoiled view of the tranquil Japanese garden around which the dining area is set.
Before I get to the cuisine, let me just say, Tetsuya’s is an experience like few other dining experiences on offer in Australia. Reminiscent of fine dining somewhere such as Dubai, the service is second to none, leaving you relaxed and feeling completely and utterly spoiled. My waiter presented me with an option to simply dine with a run through beforehand or to choose to travel on a gastronomic journey with each dish and wine explained in detail as I made my way through all ten courses, well eleven for those who cannot resist champagne and oysters to cleanse the palate.
The courses ranged from comfortable, such as the breast of duck with eggplant and almond, to daring - certainly my first time trying a savoury custard with sea urchin - although each of which was perfectly executed in presentation and flavour. The attention to detail was evident yet the complexity was not overwhelming in that even the most unique dishes were made easy for any diner to enjoy. Of course the pièce de résistance and my favourite on the night, was the signature confit of petuna ocean trout with shaved fennel and unpasteurised ocean trout caviar. The fish is cooked in a way that allows it to simply melt in your mouth and delicate combination of flavours make this dish a winner in my book and left me more than satisfied. Even after seeing the bill at the end of the evening I felt that this was a degustation worth every cent of the $210 price tag.
For those who appreciate a nice drop, the matching wines and a carefully selected sake (at an extra $95) are in perfectly harmony with each dish, with my only complaint being that the several wines made exclusively for the restaurant leave you wishing you could get your hands on a bottle to take home!
Tetsuya’s is most definitely worth a visit. At the end of my evening, stuffed and I’ll admit a little tipsy, I could clearly see why Tetsuya’s is a favourite of Sydney foodies and in my mind still the Sydney restaurant to dine if you are seeking world class service and a menu that will leave you longing for more.
